Showing posts with label tweed. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tweed. Show all posts

Saturday, March 26, 2011

Cardigan



I promised to write a proper post about an FO that has been complete for several months now but it seemed I was either wearing it with no one around to photo it, or the room needed painting, or the light was poor, or our new camera needed getting used to, etc.

Finally, here is my version of the Harvest Moon cardigan pattern on Ravelry. Sorry for the blurry photo, but we are still figuring out the new camera!
 
I originally chose this pattern for several reasons, firstly because although I often enjoy making up my own projects, I was planning travel knitting and I like to include other people's patterns because it's a fun change to occasionally knit without thinking about the design process. 


I needed a plain cardigan for everyday wear, and selected three rather basic-looking options.  The clincher for this one was that I had the exact yarn in my stash already, Berroco's Blackstone Tweed in color #2607/ Wintry Mix.



Also, top-down construction is a favorite method of mine allowing you to knit-to-fit easily, and the I-cord borders add a clean finished edge. 


I chose to make my yoke a couple of stitches larger to accommodate my linebacker shoulders, then knit the rest of the bodice in my size and this worked very well for me.  


A few other simple mods included knitting the sleeves 2" longer to accommodate my albatross wingspan, and knitting the bodice down until it was about 9 " before beginning the pockets, for a custom fit.



Some folks on Ravelry have noted having a difficult time with the pockets and they can be a bit tricky.  One tip I picked up in garment design and construction is to always prepare your materials before beginning, and I applied this to my cardigan by blocking the entire pocket area flat and square before stitching them down.  


This way the stitches line up properly and behave when you sew on the pocket garter edge bands and sew up the seams, ensuring that they're flat and straight and that you are working up a single column of knitting.  

I also blocked the entire cardigan again, after knitting was complete.

I had a terrible time finding a button I liked and although I don't love this carved bone one, it will do until I find something perhaps a little more interesting.  It is a good idea to choose buttons when you select yarn for a project, especially with a top-down style, as this allows you to alter buttonhole size and technique, if necessary.


I've heard and read mixed thoughts on this style - a cardigan that buttons with one to three buttons near the top, allowing the rest of the body to hang open.  Some people seem to think they are flattering and others completely disagree.

While I think that some disagreement in opinion is simply a matter of personal style and taste, I also think that some of it may have to do with how the garment fits the wearer.

Since most women have hips that are the same size or larger than their bust measurement, an unbuttoned cardigan hem measuring the same circumference as the bust will naturally pull open around the hips.  This effect is especially pronounced when the shoulders or bust are knit too tight.

A cardigan that is pulled open at the bottom by the hips creates a triangle with a wide base and this will naturally draw the eye to that expanse of belly and possibly make it appear more prominent.

Choosing a proper size for shoulders and bust, and modifying a cardigan to skim the hip and waist area by adding a few stitches to the circumference towards the bottom (if necessary), adds a bit of breathing room called 'ease'.  This helps allow the cardigan to hang gracefully from the bust and shoulders, making a narrower opening over the stomach area, and creates a flattering, vertical line up the front. 

Of course, everyone is shaped differently and likes their sweaters to fit their personal style and comfort level - something I celebrate!  

Until next time, peace, blessings and happy knitting to you!

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

The Need For Tweed


For some reason, I seem to be drawn to rustic yarns a lot lately.  I'm not sure if it's due to my penchant for texture, or perhaps the pleasing combination of subtly blended color.  Whatever the reason, it seems to be constantly catching my eye.

I recently began some new pattern-related projects, one using Cascade 220 Heathers bought at a recently-reviewed yarn shop, and I love this nice, smooth, basic workhorse yarn for lots of projects.  But as respectable and extremely useful as it is, it seems a little tame to me.  My fingers revel in knitting with yarn that has a more textural hand, or 'feel' to it - fluffy mohair, smooth alpaca, springy wool and nubby tweed.  

I am loving working with Debbie Bliss Donegal Aran Tweed for another project.  Debbie Bliss does a great job of creating colorways, with the tweedy nepps in one color being bits of other base colors, allowing easy coordination if using multiple colors in one project.  And the texture of this yarn is gorgeous - it has a crunchy, earthy feel, spun with just a hint of thick-thin variation, and a matte, handcrafted look. 


Donegal Aran Tweed is not a soft yarn (Debbie Bliss' Donegal Luxury Tweed fills that niche), but the natural roughness of the surface is pleasing, giving a lot of grab and snugging the knitted stitches together nicely. I am using garter stitch for this project which seems ideal for this yarn. 

I am not crazy about how some colors have a lot of 'tweediness' and high quantity of nepps, while other colors seem low-contrast and bland by comparison.  Or that one of the colors had a slight, but distinct, difference in gauge.

I also had one or two underspun spots that pulled apart when I tugged too hard on a stitch, although Donegal Tweed is very easy to wet-splice the ends back together. I've also noticed that in 5 balls of this yarn, I've not encountered a single knot. 

This 100% wool yarn has been used by knitters for just about every kind of project, including hats and cowls, but I think it would be too scratchy for next-to-skin wear for me, especially around the face.  I would; however, love to make a warm cardigan or jacket in this yarn.  Perhaps something like this A-Line jacket from Drops/ Garnstudio,


or Interweave Knits' Central Park Hoodie.



I'll keep you posted on my current project as soon as I am able to.  For now, I still feel the need, the need for tweed....